Camino de Santiago – Day 29 -Vega de Valcarce to Fonfría – 23.9 km

11.6 km up! The walk from Vega de Valcarce up to O’Cebreiro was no where near as horrible as I thought it would be. In fact my mountain loving was back for a substantial part of the day.

Getting an early start is always a good thing as the climb was done in cooler weather before lunch. It had some magical paths and reminded me of some hikes in the Blue Mountains in Australia.




Arriving at the top Anita (my Hungarian walking partner), Ignasi (my Catalonian Spanish teacher) and I were happy till we walked around the corner into tourist trap central.


The thing I’ve noticed about this trip is I’m hating the tourism and bigger towns and loving the smaller but not dead towns.

As we left O’Cebreiro I was feeling pumped up and even had a little jig along to Imagine Dragons’ ‘I’m on top of the World’ till the drugs wore off and we started heading downhill. Tendinitis has a way of giving you a false sense that you’ve healed rapidly till the walking surface is uneven and undulating combined with the drugs wearing off. So today I actually at times held onto Ignasi’s pack to keep my balance and be dragged a little.


But the mishap of the day was less charming than my tendinitis being painful. Anyone that knows me knows I need to use the bathroom many more times a day than the average person. This means I often have to run around the other side of trees or buildings or today’s mishap place the rockwall of a cemetery!!

Jumping over a fence and racing around so I could quickly relive myself soon meet with painful disaster. As I lowered my trousers I looked at the plants around me and didn’t click soon enough to realise the lower left portion of my right buttock had just connected with a type of stinging nettle.

An inch over and I would have been screaming blue murder. Much to the amusement of the people walking up the path when I announced rather too loudly what I had done. Walking for the next 10 minutes rubbing my butt cheek and having a bit of a whinge would have also been entertaining to anyone that past.

Arriving in Fonfría, I’m pleased to say that the pain has gone, I got a much needed foot massage and we have a private room for four. Our albergue, A Reboleira is funky and very nice.

The town itself however seems to be a dairy farm rather than a town. So when the guidebook says this is a typical Galician village I’m wondering if the smell of cow manure will be a constant companion till the end. I pray not!!

We are yet to work out how far we are travelling tomorrow but I have a feeling it’s going to be longer than I want. Ah but yes I do love it!


Working on my Spanish too! Counted to 30 and how to ask for a table for four. What I really want to learn is how to say: whatever, really, how sad (for you) and anything sarcastic! Probably not polite but they seem to come out my mouth so why not say them in another language.

Till tomorrow it’s food time and sleep. It’s also only 18:35 but that’s all I can think about.

Blessed be
Robyn xox


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